Showing posts with label Navajo Culture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Navajo Culture. Show all posts

Friday, March 21, 2014

Weekend Journey across the Navajo Nation (Part 4: Lukachukai to Gallup)


I first came across the the red cliff faces of Lukachukai while sitting in a dark, empty bar in El Paso, while reading "Poem for Jody" by Simon J. Ortiz. I was in a bad situation in my life, removed from home and family, and it so simply and gracefully stated a love for place that afterwards I knew I was going home to rural Utah.  In trying to make it as a writer, I had become something I'm not--urban, cynical, and worst of all, excruciatingly shy. 

Something about Ortiz's poetry in general and "Poem for Jody" in particular were life-changing for me.  What comes clear through his poetry is that for some, culture and self are inseparable. He states this beautifully in the following interview, which for years I had hanging in the entrance to my classroom:

Why do you write?

Because Indians always tell a story.  The only way to continue is to tell a story and that's what Coyote says.  The only way to continue is to tell a story and there is no other way.  Your children will not survive unless you tell something about them--how they were born, how they came to this certain plaice, how they continued.

I had no intention of becoming a wanna-be Native.  I had my own culture, my own roots, my own stories and hymns of survival.  But, I knew then that whoever I would become, if I ended up having any value to me at all, it was through, not in-spite of my small-town Mormon heritage.  I didn't necessarily know what that would look like (and still don't), and at that point I certainly wasn't interested in becoming an active Mormon again. I just knew I no longer wanted to be internally at war with everything I was.  (Prejudice, in all forms does that--rips a man from his soil in more ways than one.  Half of you fights the stereotypes of the outside world and the other half believes them.  You begin to loath part of who you are.)

And yet, either by chance or by divine intention, I ended up marrying into the Navajo tribe, moving within easy eyesight of Lukachukai Mountains and embracing both my own Mormon Heritage and much of Navajo Culture.  My personal story, and one that I fully believe, is that chance had nothing to do with it.  I also don't believe my journey into Diné Bikéyah is over.  There is one particular overlook on Canyon del Muerto (the north arm of Canyon de Chelly) that every time I visit I have a profound feeling "I've been here before."  I can almost feel, almost see the circumstances, but a veil keeps it hidden, like when you hear a song, know you know it, but the lyrics and title won't surface.  It is that strong.  And it's not the entire view, but an ancient Hogan, crumbling near a farm where the canyon forks again.  I can almost see who is there--not in a vision, but in feeling, a memory--like driving through an old neighborhood from your childhood.

Marci's family has roots in the area, so perhaps in the preexistence I was given the privilege to know of Marci's family history live--perhaps so I would find her after losing my way.  A memory crumb.  

I don't know.  Such talk is crazy in a world of science.  And yet I don't deny it.  I can't.  It is far too real, too living.  I don't know how science and religion merge and probably never will.  I don't deny science can clone a sheep--I'd have to be a fool--but I also know there are deeper currents, and that the physical world doesn't reveal the entire picture.

I had thoughts similar to these as we made our way again through a landscape that is as much a part of me as Dry Creek.

The red cliff faces of the Lukachukai Mountains described in "Poem for Jody" by Simon J. Ortiz




The high pondersa covered Fort Defiance Plateau and the Chuska Mountains.
The grocery-trip to Gallup every other week was simply spectacular.
© Steve Brown 2014

Friday, March 14, 2014

Weekend Journey across the Navajo Nation (Part 3: Rock Point to Round Rock)



Every time I've planned to do a series of posts on one topic, I've failed.  Perhaps this will be no different.  I lose interest, get side-tracked and leave the story incomplete.  But in this case, I hope not. The Rez is close to my heart and schedules and finances keep my old home at bay.  Though this trip was way too quick--not more than a drive by--it meant a lot to me.  It seems it should be recorded even if I'm no longer fully there, so I'll try to do it some sort of justice.  I once wrote to say things magnificently.  I got a few gems and threw away a lot of crap.  Now, I write to say things adequately. It is enough to say, "I came, I saw, I thought, and here is my record."  Just imagine the tapestry we'd leave behind if everyone had the need to record the journey of their days.  Facebook, to some extent is just that.  I hope future generations will have access to that cultural goldmine, but I doubt it.     

These two rocks south of "Rock Point" together look like a cartoon whale to me.
I'm not sure if the community is named after one of these or a smaller rock north of "town".

Red rock, as a whole, is different in southern Utah than in northern Arizona.  In Utah, high plateaus, still mostly intact are gouged by deep, winding canyons that cut through and shred the edges of massive tables of rock.  In northern Arizona the plateaus, as a whole, have eroded away and left islands of rock.

There are, of course, lots of exceptions.  Canyon de Chelly cuts deep into the still very intact Ft. Defiance Plateau.   The Kiabab, though torn by the Grand Canyon is still there, cohesively major.  And so my argument may here fall apart, but at least visually, there seems to be less canyons in Arizona and more lone stones.

Nowhere is this more apparent than in the Four Corners:  El Capitan, Monument Valley, Church Rock, Rock Point, Round Rock, Red Mesa, Ship Rock, etc.  Red Rock buttes and deep gray volcanic plugs rise out of broad valleys abruptly.  Many of these in Navajo mythology are the monsters slain by the hero twins.

As we made our way south and east on US 191 and India Route 12 I was amazed to see again my old stone friends.

Close up of the tale of the "whale"
Rock Point?--I don't know.

My favorite rock on the Rez is what I assume to be Round Rock, a massive butte between the communities of Many Farms and Round Rock with a flying buttress arch on the west side and a deep red gouged vegetation-less skirt reminiscent of NASA pictures of Mars.

Round Rock?--I don't know

As the rock is more rectangular than round, I've never been sure if it is the rock for which the community is named.  It does have a round eye of the needle hole through the arch on the north, but that isn't visible from "Round Rock".  There is a much less impressive rock closer to Round Rock that is round, so that may be the rock for which the town is named.  I once picked up a hitch-hiker and asked him, but he didn't know--or just as likely, wasn't willing to divulge that information.  I understand that.  The white man wants to claim everything and make a profit off it--especially after marginalizing a culture.  Okay, even though we tried to exterminate you, we still would like your culture and your religion logged in our books.  There have been far too many books written about the Rez by bilagáanas who spend a summer and interview a few elders without really taking the time to absorb the culture.

Personally, I feel the Navajo are quite capable of writing their own books, should they want to.  And even after eight years living there and sixteen years of being married into the culture, I feel inadequate to be more than a travel writer when on the Rez.  So, I will restrict myself to being a tourist and will let the Diné story be told by the Diné .  It seems only reasonable.    







Monday, March 3, 2014

Weekend Journey across the Navajo Nation (Part 2--Kayenta to U.S. 191 + Alice Walker and Tillie Olsen)




By Alice Walker's standards, I'm no writer.   I believe I read an essay where she damns Tillie Olsen for claiming in the preface of I Stand Here Ironing that she (Tillie, herself) was unable to write when younger because she was too busy being a wife and mother.  Alice says that's complete hogwash by a lazy, undediticated (and therefor undeserving) writer.  Alice then goes on to tell how she (Alice, herself, quite the martyr for her art), raised babies all day and then wrote all night.

Now, I'm almost sure what I claim here is true and I'd verify it, if it weren't raining and if the books needed were not in the shed, which is crammed floor to ceiling with junk.  In other words, I could cite sources if I weren't so lazy.  So, even though I once had an enormous crush on Alice Walker and rushed from Dallas to Austin and screamed at my diabetic carmate, "No--damn it!-- I can't stop to get you food right now, you'll just have to die or we'll miss Alice!"--even with that passion, I must side with Tillie here.  Sometimes I'm just too stinking tired to write.

Life crowds in, takes over.  And unlike Alice, I'm okay with that.  Sexy as those dreadlocks are, it would have never worked out.  It's 9:24 and already I'm up way past my bedtime.  So, I probably won't get this posted before the end of February, which is sad, because I need all the views I can get. (Last Saturday I jumped up thrilled at the number of views I'd received and my son broke into laughter--"Dad, I can get more hits on facebook by posting 'huh, what?")

So, anyway, here's the second post on our trip across the Navajo Nation.



Petrified dunes & red bluffs east of U.S. 160 & Indian Route 59 

Okay, perhaps I'm not quite over Alice yet.  Just now, I was thinking about how to explain that one of my favorite parts of the reservation (U.S. 160 from the turn-off to Indian Route 59 to Red Mesa) is geographically speaking the least eventful area along the route when a poem by Alice Walker came to mind that says it perfectly:

"But think about the time
you saw the moon 
over that small canyon
that you liked much better
than the grand one--and how surprised you were
that the moonlight was green
and you still had
one good eye
to see it with."

And that is what I often find with landscapes--the subtle haunts me more than the grand.  This area is almost a wide valley edged by a low, red mesa to the north and a low, gray mesa to the south.  I say almost because it's not that uniform but broken by small swells and shallow canyon washes.  Still, picture the Mississippi drained dry and that's about what it is.  Low, petrified dunes piled up long, long ago, then frozen by time, march across a wide valley edged by low bluffs.

It has a subtlety to it--a slow unwinding letting go.  "Let It Grow" by Eric Clapton is perhaps the musical equivalent.  These things astound me:  gentle contours, a winding wash, rippled stone, time, distance, God, love.


Sunday, February 23, 2014

Weekend Journey across the Navajo Nation (Part 1--Page to Kayenta)

It’s been over a week now; the sun is low; the sky is faded; I’m tired.  The post I so looked forward to writing remains undone, scattered notes gathered as we made our way across the Navajo Nation for Marci’s Grandma’s second 90th Birthday.  The weekend was just what I’d hoped for, but as is so often the case when writing travelogues, no matter how brief, by the time the trip is over, you’re too tired to record what went down, and then the next morning real life sets in and before you know it, the journey is seeping into your unconscious like desert rain sponged up by parched ground.  Sure, it will spring up again, triggered by another thought or memory, but what good does that do now.  For now that memory is dry, cracked, fragmented, curling up, and flaking away into the hot wind.

Recovery takes work, energy I’m not sure I have right now.  I think I’ll post a few of the better notes that I do have, a few photos, perhaps fill in some holes and call it good.  It won’t be the work I envisioned, but it won’t be totally gone either.

Notes exist when either Rio or Marci was driving.  They don’t exist from when I was driving for obvious reasons.  But photos snapped through dirty windows help.  As we only had the weekend and 956 miles to cover, there simply wasn’t time to stop and compose, either the photographs or the writing.  It truly is a journal written on the run.  

Since we left Dry Creek as the sun was setting Friday night, I begin the record the next morning as we were leaving Page, Arizona. 

Saturday, February 8, 2014
9:40 a.m.

Page:  Gateway to the Navajo Nation.   Antelope Canyon, a narrow, slight-undulating narrow groove gouged in the gently slope slanting down toward Glenn Canyon and Lake Powell.  From the highway, it is almost imperceptible, not much wider that a narrow wash or sidewalk.  But inside, it is a cathedral of light, among one of the most photographed spots on planet earth.

I know this road as well as the back of hand, but just like I don’t know the names of the countless creases in my aging hand, I can name very few of the folds, creases and scars of this weathered land.  This is because I’m Bilagáana, and as much as this space pulls my heart-strings, it belongs the Diné, who do know the name and history of every dimple and pock mark, many having , or water, as part of the name, water being so essential in this high desert of sand, monolithic stone and juniper.


One of the many stone monuments for which I don't know the name, U.S. 98.

10:19 a.m.

Grasslands are more a part of red-rock country then you would think.  High-open spaces of gold dotted with scattered Juniper, and with just a little elevation climb, the juniper thicken to dark clumpy forest.  Pinion join.  Then a drop—the land falls away in forested folds towards the knees of Black Mesa, a long line of clouds trailing along the top.  Crossroads Trading Post:  Saturday is flea market day, the heart and soul of the Navajo economy.   Too bad we don’t have the time to stop for mutton stew.  Damn, I haven’t had mutton in such a long time.  I can’t wait to eat at the birthday gathering.

10:33 a.m.

I love how often stone is at the surface here: not rock piles, but massive whale-backs of bedrock.  Sometimes they rise out of horizon like enormous sea-monsters arching their back, but just as often they remain mostly submerged in the sand, a crest of rippled rock forming a broad, low hill.  I’ve always wanted to build a Villa Savoy-like home in such a place, a white ship floating above red, rippled stone on concrete pilasters.  There’d be no grass to water, just cool, slick undulating stone to walk across in bare feet in the morning—a beach house on a frozen beach.  Wonderful!

A whale-back hill near Tsegi Canyon, U.S. 160

11:00 a.m.

Between Tsegi Canyon and Kayenta.  Rock is the drumbeat of this land: monoclines, anticlines, volcanic plugs, monuments, buttes, swells. 

Cliff faces headed east of Anasazi Inn and Tsegi Canyon on U.S. 160

Photographs and After-the-Fact Narrative



It was probably 11:30 when we pulled into the Chevron in Kayenta.  Kayenta is the cleanest, most prosperous of the large Navajo towns (Kayenta, Tuba City, Chinle, Shiprock and Windowrock).  I don't know if that is because it is the gateway to Monument Valley (and therefore receives more tourists dollars) or because it has a unique, more autonomous government than the other large towns, or most likely, a combination of both.

That may take some explanation.  Politically speaking, as well as traditionally speaking, there are no towns on the Navajo Reservation.  Unlike the Hopi, Navajo have never gathered in towns.  In the past, there were no villages.  Instead, there were clusters of extended family units.


Most of the reservation is still that way.  Towns are few and far in between, but there are lots of clusters of homes on family lease sites in between.  It's not near as rural as it seems.  There just aren't many towns.


And again, I use the term "town" loosely.  Politically, with the exception of Kayenta, there are no towns.  Even Windowrock, the capital, is not a town.  Instead, power is held at the chapter level (the equivalent of a county government), and what appear to be towns are no more than incidental proximity of families, which leads to the need for schools, hospitals, which then fuels a local economy, such as gas stations and grocery stores.


However, these communities have no autonomy from the chapter and have no power to self-regulate, such as establishing taxes, raising bonds, deciding zoning or promoting tourism.


Kayenta is the exception.  With a population of 5,189, it has the only municipal-style government within the Navajo Nation and has a 5-member elected town board which hires a township manager (Wikipedia).  It officially became a township April 30, 1997 for a five-year-trial after 17 years of planing.  In the 2003, Kayenta obtained official permanent status as a municipality (Kayenta Township).


From appearances, it seems to have worked.  Though still a long, spread out strip along the highway, like the other large Navajo Communities, it is cleaner and looks more prosperous, even on the backstreets.  Of course, as Monument Valley is only twenty-five miles away and is one of the most photographed spots on earth, it would have a more robust economy with or without township status. Still, Chinle has Canyon de Chelly National Park and is not near as vibrant as Kayenta so I tend to think local control has a positive impact.



Church Rock, a volcanic plug about 5 1/2 miles east of Kayenta on U.S. 160
is one of the many rock monuments in the Kayenta area.

Sunday, February 2, 2014

Tupperware, Moss & Ice: A Bilagaana's Views on Life from the Navajo Nation (and "Poem for Jody" by Simon J. Ortiz)


This is the introduction to a collection of poems, Tupperware, Moss & Ice, that I compiled in 2004, my fourth year living on the Navajo Reservation.  We continued to live there another four years afterwards.  Dry Creek and the Navajo Nation are the two places in my life that have felt like home. Everywhere else, no matter how nice the place, no matter how good the people, always just felt like a residence.  Everyone has one or two spiritual homes, places they know they can just slide into and be. Dry Creek and the Navajo Nation are mine.

Tupperware, Moss & Ice

Traditional Hogan, Navajo Village Herritage Center, Page, Arizona
Thursday, December 9, 2004.  It's a little after 5:30, and I'm headed up a two-lane paved road through Lukachukai, Arizona, on the Navajo Reservation.  On the left is Totsoh Trading Post, a wonderful old concrete block building, and one of the last of its kind, a real trading post, selling canned goods, great sacks of Bluebird flour, a few choices of vegetables and meat, as well as lanterns, shovels, metal buckets, Pendelton blankets, and caste-iron frying pans.  It's owned by the grandparents of one of my students, Danielle. Two of their other granddaughters were also my students in the past.  There is a wood sign outside, "Pinions Sold Here," and a great big lighted spruce tree in front of the adjoining house.  It's near-dark, and the big, old-fashioned gum-drop Christmas lights delight me.  The Lukachukai Mountains are not much more than a gray outline against the darkening sky.  Up ahead is the green sign pointing to Lukachukai Community School. I pass a trailer of another student, Ailene, and turn onto another paved road.

Up ahead is the school, part of what I call the Tupperware world.  I've never been in it, but I work in a school much like it, and I know that world well.  It's relatively connected to the outside world in that it has electricity, telephones, Internet, plumbing, and is part of some larger bureaucracy.  It is accountable to No Child Left Behind.  Even though it has Navajo Culture and Navajo Language classes, it is less connected to the local community, and perhaps it is even somewhat sealed off from it.   While in that lighted, heated building, it is very easy to forget that many of the students had to heat water over an open fire when they bathed for school. They dress like kids in California, listen to the same music as kids in California, and to some extent, even talk like kids in California when they are at school.  It is part of their world.  But, it is not all of it.  The school is a giant Tupperware jar thrown in the brush--a plastic , insulated world warmed and cooled by electricity, surrounded by teacher housing, which is also insulated from the Reseravation, surrounded by fences, each home possessing an indoor toilet and shower.  In short, like all schools and hospitals on the Reservation, it is a world within a world, much like a foreign embassy.  Whether it's a good or evil world I'll leave to the judgement of the Navajos.

However, I do know that I enjoy teaching in such a world.  Sometimes, I even enjoy looking through state standards, designing rubrics, and grading papers.  More often I enjoy the students, and if truth be told, I love them--even the ones who won't do the work I want done.  I don't know if I love them because they're Navajo, or just because they're children, or maybe just because I turn a few of them into my little writing disciples.  The Rez is the only place I've ever taught, and so I don't have much of a world view of my profession.  I have no itch to leave, and so I probably never will expand my view.  These are the children I know and love to teach.

Just before the school, I take a left and enter the Navajo world.  It has been snowing for a week, has been very cold, and the dirt roads have been packed with snow pressed to a smooth polish.  But today it warmed. Lukachukai is considered lucky, for its soil is more sand than clay.  Even so, the slushy snow and mud oozes beneath my van's tires as I slip in and out of the grooves.  It is hard to describe these roads to an outsider.  I grew up in rural Utah, but it was no training ground for Rez roads.  At home, the farm roads are gravel, which compared to these, is like driving down the Interstate.  I fish-tail around a corner, hit an especially deep pot of ice, water and mud, which splashes up over my windshield, before I dip down through a wash. I admire the rutted, sandy, deep-grooved wash banks the best I can through my mud-smeared windshield. Then, it's up the other side, where this morning, one of the buses came uncomfortably close to me as it literally slid on by.

I head on up towards the red cliff-faces of the Lukachukai Mountains that I read about in a poem by Simon J. Ortiz long before I ever moved here.  I was reading in a bar in El Paso, feeling very lost and alone, when I came across "Poem for Jody."  I was in a bad situation in my life, removed from home and family, and it so simply and gracefully stated a love for place that afterwards I knew I was going home to rural Utah.  In trying to make it as a writer, I had become something I'm not--urban, cynical, and worst of all, excruciatingly shy. To this day, I don't know what happened; I knew some great people in Dallas and El Paso.  Still, somewhere along the way, I'd lost myself.  I had become a shell.  Then, when I returned to my roots, slowly I found me. Exposed soil and sage are deep within me.  Bare trees and red skies are who I am.  Frozen puddles and rutted road--I don't know why, but I can't breath without them.

I honestly believe my greatest worldly accomplishment is that I have now lived without seeing smog for six years except on those rare trips to Phoenix and the outside world.  I know that fact in no way changes the reality of the world--I drive 40 miles a day just to take Everest to and from the babysitter, and I contribute more than my fare share to global warming--but if life is meant to be walked in beauty, I have journeyed to the right place.  The moon is up, tufts of snow glow along the tops of the cliff-rock, and even with moonlight, the stars shine unnervingly sharp.

I turn into the babysitter's.  There's two homes here.  One belongs to Amos, one of our school janitors.  He also works in the kitchen.  He works sixteen hour days and always seems to be happy.  I often wonder how that is possible, but that's at school, in the Tupperware world, where everything is distorted by what is plastic and opaque.  As I get out into the cold evening and walk between his cottonwood and Russian olive trees to the small house with the smoke swirling out of the stack, I know why he's happy.  This place.  It's the ice, the clarity, stars sharp and bright, earth wet and sound.  You can smell it, feel it, reality.  It's what most of the world is lacking--shit on the boots, mice in the car, ice-pelted sagebrush--a smell heavenly strong.  There is a rhythm to bringing in the fire wood that can't be duplicated by running to the mall again.

Next to him, in a wonderful trailer with with a full porch that's been added to it, lives his son, Bryan and his wife, who both work at our school.  He's a teacher and his wife is our ELL clerk.  Amos also raises a grandson and granddaughter, Richelle and Leroy, who are my students.   This is the moss--family, comfort, the cozy known.  I used to make fun of it and about voided my soul in trying to separate myself from my own version of it.  But we all need it--clan, family, roots, tradition.  Our society is severely sick from the lack of it.

I knock.  The door swings open, and out rushes my son, Everest.  He jumps into my arms as I go inside to fetch his lunch bag and talk briefly about work Richelle and Leroy need to turn into me.  And somehow it all matters--all of it.  I walk back on the wet, sandstone walkway, out the gate, through the mud and then take one last whiff of the fireplace smoke before getting in the car and driving back to my school compound about twenty minutes away.

On the way back Everest and I don't say much.  He's too busy looking at the stars.  I'm too busy looking at the stars.  I'm also thinking about how I'll explain the title of this collection--Tupperware, Moss and Ice--without voiding its meaning.

The Tupperware World is the plastic world we operate in most of the time.  It is the schedules, duties, work and pay checks.  I'm not sure if it's good or evil.  I know of very few people, including myself, who are brave enough to live totally outside of it.  When I tried, I was broke, hungry and miserable.  Now that I acknowledge it, I sometimes even get along quite well with it.  However, it has very little to do with life, simply because it does nothing to address those nagging questions everyone has whether or not they are brave enough to voice them--Why are we here? and What do we live for?  I feel great sorrow for those too afraid to search for those answers, those who wrap themselves in the material world, believing that it is all there is.

The Moss World is our family, both extended and nuclear.  It is the noise, the bickering, the hugs, the fighting.  It is not being able to stand being around each other.  But having no family around me for a long time, I can tell you, I for one, would die without it.  There was one particular night I walked down Mesa Street in El Paso swearing at every passing car, "I want to die--and you don't give a shit!" and of course they didn't.  They couldn't  The city makes people into strangers by placing them out of context.  In a small town you know an eccentric man's history, even a crazy man's history, and so you understand him.  Ripped from context, he seems scary and dangerous.  Living without family is like sleeping exposed on a glacier on an all-too clear, bitter-cold night, when every star is sharp and the surrounding steep granite cliffs point to the void with savage exactitude.  Most of us are not made to sleep well under such conditions.  We need moss, ferns, maple, pine, the sounds of other critters, some reassurance we are not all alone in this vast universe.  I am well because I found family again--both the one that raised me and the one I am now raising.

However, I also believe in facing that void--the ice, the clarity--feeling naked before a creation so great and incomprehensible that it makes us both stare in awe at its vastness and head for fig-leaf covers and cushy comforts, where we both want to know and not know the answers to life's questions simultaneously. Personally, I believe God can only be found there, in that place of not-knowing, glimpsed often enough to keep you believing, but hidden often enough to keep you searching.

And so, my hope is that these poems point a finger towards the ice without leaving behind the Tupperware and moss.  May we always be searching and never be found.

For my family
For my Creator

Thanks to both for the second chance at living.

© Steve Brown, 2004

Afterwards:

Simon J. Ortiz indirectly brought me to the Navajo Nation by instilling in me the desire to return to my own heritage, rural Utah, where I met Marci, a Navajo.  I don't think it's by accident that I came across "Poem for Jody" at the lowest point of my life or that we ended up living in sight of the Lukachukai Mountains.  And there is no more fitting way to update this post than with some lines from "Poem for Jody":

I was telling you
about the red cliff faces
of the Lukachukai mountains--
how it is 
going away--
...
and you don't ever want to go
but do anyway.

  



Thursday, July 26, 2012

Sustainable Living: Here--Every Vital Place has its Scent.

Front Yard at Dry Creek.  Lloyd and I planted the oaks as seedlings in 1996. 
Large trees in the background are natural, following the canyon slope of Dry Creek Canyon.
It has been cool at Dry Creek since our return--with cloud cover, with rain.  Yesterday, it only reached 86.  Nice.  I sit in the arranged living room that only yesterday morning was so crammed with boxes you could hardly walk.  A cool breeze blows gently in the window.  Jack, our cat, sits on the sill, twitching his nose as he catches wafts of moist air from the canyon.

Living room after Marci arranged it.

Every vital place has its scent.  I loved August afternoons hanging up laundry in Tsaile.  Cool wind would bring the warm scent of summer pine as the monsoon clouds would build along the Lukachukai Mountains.

Here the predominant smell is of creek bottom and cottonwood.  It rises out of the canyon in waves on even the hottest of days.  Walking up to Mom's house is like going for a swim--how currents in the water bring ever changing temperatures.  Even though yesterday was mild, while we were walking up the lane, Marci hit a pocket of hot, humid air and commented on it.

Likewise, on the hottest of days, you'll be walking up the lane and a moist, cool pocket of air will perched on the canyon edge, waiting for you.

I have come to realize these small moments are worth whatever job I might have to take up to put food on the table and remain centered on this land.

Marci turns to look at the rainbow while looking after the chickens.  Autumn, my brother's dog, stays focused on the chickens.

Life, at least for the poet, is about place.  I don't need to be here, but I need to be some place alive with wild sights, smells and textures.  Alaska would probably do as well.  But as this is my home, heritage, it seems more ethical to make it here if I can.

I don't know how to explain this.  It may be something only people who identify with a minority group can understand.  Navajos get it.  A Navajo may have to live, may even enjoy living in Seattle, New York or Phoenix, but to most Navajos the only real home is the reservation.  They may enjoy the malls, the lawns, the restaurants in the big city, but their center is always the hearth at the center of grandma's hogan.

Utah is the Mormon reservation.  Zion.  For some, like me, it is a tainted garden, and we have a love-hate relationship with it.  How could it be otherwise for a liberal living dead center of Republican Land?  Yet, it is still home--the sights, sounds, smells, textures we identify with being.

The garden at Dry Creek--Our summer hearth.

Friday, July 13, 2012

Sustainable Living Advice from Gary Snyder: Find Whatever Moves You to the Core; Move Never More

Lloyd, Rio, and Marci on the hike up Paradise Canyon Trail--part of our realm.

Phil visits our realm.
Moss Falls, the destination for this particular day.

As I’ve said before, my idea of Sustainable Living is not simply an environmental act.  Although living lightly (leaving the smallest carbon foot-print possible and being water conscious) is vital to our survival, the reality is, it’s often easier to help the planet ecologically by living in a high rise a couple blocks from the office than by buying land in Nebraska, Wyoming or Utah and deciding to live off the land.  For one thing, because of the scant population, human resources and services are scarce in rural areas.  Jobs are few and far between and there is no public transportation.  Some places are so remote buying a loaf of bread requires a road trip.
Marci walks a gravel road across a desert lake--part of the great expanse that is our realm.
For example, when I lived on the Navajo Nation, the nearest grocery store was 30 minutes away.  The nearest town with clothing, hardware and a movie theater--Gallup--was an hour and a half.  We did our best to cut down on fuel consumption by only going to town twice a month, but in order to comfortably make that trip with four kids, we purchased a full-sized van so that the boys wouldn’t have to ride back with bags of groceries on their laps.  In the rural west, it’s not uncommon to drive an hour and a half for a good steak and a movie afterwards, an absurd idea for urbanites, and clearly not good for the planet, but sometimes a psychological necessity, especially in the dead of winter.  That is why places like Denio, Nevada exist--dots on the vast uninhabited expanse--to provide coffee, a good steak and baked potato, and most important of all, human contact beyond spouse and children to the last frontiersmen.
The county in which Dry Creek is located in (which I’ll always leave unnamed so that I don’t accidently commit the same atrocity that Edward Abbey inadvertently committed against Moab), is an expanse of 6,828 square miles with a population of 12,420,  If you do the math, that’s an average density of 1.5 people per square mile.  There is lots of elbow room, but minimal services and career opportunities.  In fact, until Dry Creek is truly sustainable, I may have to commute an hour or more each day to work.  I’m a teacher and there are only three high schools serving that great expanse, half a dozen total within an hour’s drive.  Teaching positions seldom open up, and when they do, an administrator’s relative, who has been trying to return home for years, is usually the first applicant.  I don’t resent that; these communities are built on deep family ties.   But to claim that I’ll be assisting the planet ecologically by moving to Dry Creek is absurd--at least to begin with.
Remnants of ancient Lake Bonniville: Part of the 239 square miles or 3.50%  of the mostly arid 6,828 square mile county.  During the last ice age, western Utah was covered by an enormous inland lake.

But the ecosystem is not the only diseased system in the United States.  In most of the places I’ve lived since leaving home, I haven’t even known my neighbors.  Humanity in the United States is becoming a desert where roots are shallow and people tumble along the sands of dreams, blowing from one sink hole to another sink hole, searching for fertile soil, desperately looking for land where family can take root, but it never does, because we are career-driven rather than life-driven.  We go wherever our careers take us.  That is a monumental cultural change and I believe a spiritually devastating one.  People use to work in order to live; now people live in order to work.  The office has replaced the family as the center.  This cannot be good.
This, I believe, is what truly drives the sustainable living movement--a hunger for earth, for people, for place.  In Gardening at the Dragon’s Gate, Wendy Johnson includes a quotation by Gary Snyder that captures this simple, radical philosophy so vital for our times:
Don’t move.  Stay still.  Once you find a place that feels halfway right, and it seems time, settle down with a vow not to move anymore.  Take a look at one place on earth, one circle of beings, one realm of beings over time.
It will require sacrifice.  Losing a job might require taking a pay cut and/or a job with less social status in order to stay put.  It may require that the philosopher take up the socket wrench, the poet flip burgers, the anarchist mow the lawn and trim hedges at the cemetery.   But deep roots make it worth it.  I know it.  As a kid, I knew it.  All I ever wanted to do was float pop cans down the creek, run along the bank, catch them at the bridge, and run back again.  Does anyone ever really need more than this?  Not me.  When I initially left my home to "become something" I slowly grew ill and didn’t even know why.  And because I was ill, I couldn’t become what I’d set out to become anyway.  And if I had, nothing would have changed, as my spiritual center would still be along some creek watching a pop can ride the small rapids under the dappled shade.
Perhaps your center is a certain smell:  the dry pines of northern California in the summertime; the smell of coffee and bread from the corner bakery; maybe the ready-to-ignite air of Texas City on Galveston Bay.   Or perhaps your center is a sound: the peeling of church bells echoing through the concrete canyons as shadows are cast long and a stream of taillights heads for the suburbs; the rattle of tracks of the elevated outside the apartment window; the long, low moan of the foghorn or the hum of that great suburban serenador, the lawn mower.  Whatever it is that moves you to the core--find it and move never more.   For you will never feel quit right without that small something that rationally has no great impact on the world but to you is the universe.  That for me is Dry Creek.  Everything.  I simply do not fully exist elsewhere.
The garden at Dry Creek--the center of our realm.





© Steve Brown, 2012

Monday, June 18, 2012

No Mirror: Native American Story Structure in Sherman Alexie’s “The Lone Ranger and Tonto Fistfight in Heaven”


As I need some time to flush out some current post I'm working on, I thought this would be a good time to share an essay I wrote last summer about Alexie's story, "The Lone Ranger and Tonto Fistfight in Heaven.”  What I'd really appreciate is feedback, especially by Natives.  Please post your thoughts and experiences, whether you agree with my observations or not.
In a recent class in my MFA program, I was assigned to write an essay on Sherman Alexie’s “The Lone Ranger and Tonto Fistfight in Heaven,” and decided to write off the following question developed by my professor:
Some critics would refer to Alexie's and other contemporary writers' fiction as "committed" fiction--that is, fiction with a clear political point of view and set of political arguments, often satirical. Committed fiction, they argue, makes its political arguments organic to the narratives they tell but they are not "didactic"--that is, intended to teach as moral instruction in a patronizing way. Is Alexie's story didactic or "committed"? What implicit political arguments is the narrator making? How are they organic to the narrative? Or are they simply heavy-handed?
I say “write off,” because, based on the information given in the prompt, I’m not sure either term quite works, and so I’ll have to modify the prompt, as I use it.  At first glance, it seems “Committed” would probably work:   any politics in this story are “organic to the narrative” and are not meant to “teach…moral instruction in a patronizing way.”   And yet, the term and its definition feel wrong to me.  To explain my reaction, I must first explain that I’m married into a Navajo family and have lived and taught on the Navajo Nation for eight years.  (As I write this, my wife’s family is sponsoring a family reunion.  However, if I let them know my intentions, they’ll say, “Always the bilagaana (white-man) trying to steal our culture; always the bilagaana trying to teach something.”  They’ll be joking and deadly serious at the same time and there will be no way to separate the joke from the non-joke, because in Navajo culture the joke and non-joke are fused—the sarcasm is there, but it is not meant to sting or change anything, it just is.)   Navajo obviously is a complete separate culture and language than Alexie’s, an oversight often made by whites, who treat Native Americans as if they came from one single, united culture, even though each tribe has its own language and religious beliefs, many of which clash.  However, there is a common Native culture and humor that is shared among the tribes, which is either intrinsic to all Native Americans, or has developed through the long history of white-imposed Indian Schools and the more recent inter-tribal Powwow circuit.  It is, I believe, this larger contemporary Native American culture Alexie is writing about, and this larger Native American audience Alexie is writing to, not Anglo-Americans.   It is a mistake to believe this story was tailored for our sensibilities in any way.
Which is why, ultimately, as useful as the prompt is, it fails.  As I will show, it imposes Anglo-American thinking on a Native American narrative structure.  It assumes an Anglo-American purpose for story telling, which Native Americans do not share.  Anglos, as I’m doing here, write primarily to persuade.  Rhetoric is just a part of who we are.  To make a point, to be slightly combative, to outwit, outsmart, debate, is just who we are, and we assume that is universally true of all cultures, and it’s not.  From what I’ve observed, “out-smarting” is definitely part of Navajo culture, but it’s in jest, and unlike in white-culture, it is not the primary purpose of language.  We use language to try to change the world to how we want it; Native Americans use language to share the world as it already exists.  There is no political agenda.  The point of the story is the story itself, as evidenced by an interview with the Acoma Indian poet, Simon J. Ortiz:
Why do you write?  Who do you write for?
Because Indians always tell a story.  The only way to continue is to tell a story and that’s what Coyote says.  The only way to continue is to tell a story and there is no other way.  Your children will not survive unless you tell something about them—how they were born, how they came to this certain place, how they continued.
Who do you write for besides yourself?
For my children, for my wife, for my mother and my father and my grandparents and then reverse order that way so that I may have a good journey on my way back home.
                This short excerpt models Native American thinking and communication in several important ways.  First, it uses repetition, by fours, as its primary structure.  First Ortiz says he writes, “to tell a story.”  Then he says, “the only way to continue is to tell a story and that’s what Coyote says.”   Next he says “the only way to continue is to tell a story and there is no other way.”  Finally, he says, “Your children will not survive unless you tell something about them—how they were born, how they came to this certain place, how they continued.”  He repeats, and then adds, deepening the meaning, each time he repeats, until the fourth time, when the “ah-ha” moment is allowed to shine through in all its glory.  It’s significant that this comes from an interview.  Ortiz did not compose it this way for an effect; it’s just how he organically thinks and communicates.  Native American students in public schools, and I presume college as well, often have their writing marked down for being redundant because Anglo-writing is thesis-driven, whereas Native American communication is experience-driven.  In white society, you state your theses, and then back it up with evidence.  In Native American societies, you share your experience and discover the truth through the narrative journey.   An Indian will not tell you what you need to know; they will only share with you what they learned along the way, which completely obliterates political discourse as we understand it.  Politics at the Chapter House do not proceed as they do in Washington, even if the outcomes are similar.
                This is the same basic narrative structure for Alexie’s “The Lone Ranger and Tonto Fistfight in Heaven.”  Because I’m Anglo, after I finished the story, I initially thought, “Where was the fistfight?,” which of the characters are the Lone Ranger? (Tonto was obvious enough even for me), and “Where is heaven in the story?”  The title seemed random, and the events seemed unrelated:  1) a mock confrontation with a white 7-11 clerk; 2) a break-up with a white girlfriend, 3) a basketball game with the white son of the Bureau of Indian Affairs chief; and 4) looking for a job in the white-man’s world.
            But, the title is not random—it is the essential experience the story shares: how “The Lone Ranger” (whites) and Tonto (the narrator) battle it out.  However, there is another important part of the title, which is “Heaven.”  As there is absolutely no reference to an after-life in the story, and all the details are clearly of this world—7-11, driving around Seattle to avoid his girlfriend, playing basketball, looking through want-ads—one can only assume “heaven” is this life.
            That was my experience living on the Rez.  I was treated as the enemy, but a friendly enemy, like an opponent in a game of Rez-ball, which is both serious and not serious at the same time.   There was a keen awareness of what my people had done to the Navajo people, a distrust that anything had fundamentally changed (in other words, my being there and teaching their children was still eroding the traditional culture as the presence of whites always has done), but a bond still existed, in the bigger bother-hood of life, that was larger than the tribal warfare between whites and Navajos.  Native Americans, unlike whites, have no need to hate their enemies, nor convert them.   Tease them, yes.  Laugh at them, yes.  But hate, or wish to alter their basic nature, no.  And, whether we like it or not, no need to forgive us either, because, first what we’ve done is so profoundly awful it is beyond forgiveness, and second, as Native Americans are culturally inward looking, rather than outward looking, we are not important enough to forgive.  We are not “the people.”  Native Americans believe they continued just fine before us, fine with us, and will continue just fine without us, if that day shall ever come.    
            My initial trouble at fully understanding the text arose from the fact that despite being married into a Navajo family, despite having lived and taught on the Navajo reservation for eight years, I am still primarily a white-thinker.  After reading Ortiz again, thinking about story telling in my classroom, thinking about story telling in my wife’s family, it became obvious.  This story is not about seemingly unrelated events--a mock confrontation with a white 7-11 clerk, a break-up with a white girlfriend, a basketball game with the white son of the Bureau of Indian Affairs chief, or about looking for a job in the white-man’s world—all used as details to frame a larger story about more global historical issues.  It’s not political at all.
            This brings us to the second important point about Native American narrative structure as evidenced in the Ortiz quote:  Your children will not survive unless you tell something about them—how they were born, how they came to this certain place, how they continued.  Native American narrative overall is designed for the good of the tribe, the clan, the family, not some external audience.  As a white, you are more than welcome to sit in the circle and listen to the story being told, but the story telling is not for you, it is for the Natives.  Alexie’s “The Lone Ranger and Tonto Fistfight in Heaven” is not written for us; even though we are free to enjoy it—it is written for Alexie’s people and other Native Americans who share a united experience and immediately get how the title and the four retellings of what it is like to be an Indian in white society are all different versions of the same experience.  It is meant as bitter humor—ain’t that just how it feels bro, when you’re in a 7-ll late at night, and it’s just assumed you’re there to steal?   This is not explaining, this is not converting, this is not making political statements.  It’s shit, this is how it feels, ain’t it?  And then big, rolling laughter after because it hurts too damn much to cry.  No fault.  No demon.  Just is.
 The only way to continue is to tell a story and that’s what Coyote says:  this is what it was like when Kit Carson and his Calvary rode through the Chinle Valley and burned our crops and homes, and chased your great- grandparents up into Canyon de Chelly and the only reason you’re here alive is because your grandmother as a baby was taken and hidden in a juniper tree and somehow survived a couple of days without food or water until her parents could come back to get her.     The only way to continue is to tell a story and there is no other way.  And this is what it’s like to go to boarding school and not be able to see your family or speak your language or eat your food or practice your religion.  Your children will not survive unless you tell something about them.  This is what it’s like to be “Too hot to sleep”  and “walk to the Third Avenue 7-11 for a Creamsicle and the company of a graveyard-shift cashier” (Alexie, 15) in a city that is built on your land but is built in the image of your enemy—to be alive in a country that attempted to annihilate your people and now wants forgiveness;  this is how [you] were born, how [you] came to this certain place, how [you]  continued:
  “Disembodied, I could never see everything that was happening.  Whites killing Indians and Indians killing whites…Three mounted soldiers played polo with a dead Indian woman’s head… Even more terrifying, though, is the fact those kinds of things are happening today in places like El Salvador” (17).
The story isn’t political because there is not enough evidence to credibly believe things will ever change between cultures who dominate and cultures who are dominated.    Instead, the story is a manual on how to survive, written for much the same reasons Ortiz writes:
For my children, for my wife, for my mother and my father and my grandparents and then reverse order that way so that I may have a good journey on my way back home.
If the story is political in any way, it is political this way.  It is sovereign: independent of our usual rhetorical structures, independent of our usual purposes in writing, independent of Anglos as an audience, only sharing what is universal—anger, hurt, love, getting on with life—because there is no way not to share those universal feelings when telling a good story.  In short, it is political in that it refuses to mirror Anglo society.    And that does change us, because it forces us to accept that the way we mentally organize the world is not the only way.   We have to let go of our expectations, our politics, and enter the story on its own native terms or sit around the peripheral only half getting the humor, which is what I spend much of my life doing.  But that too is a good journey. 
It is significant that Alexie closes with these parallel journeys.  The narrator and his girl friend can both say sorry, but she, very Anglo, ends by saying, “I want to change the world” (19).
The narrator, in contrast, closes by saying:
I wish I lived closer to the river, to the falls where the ghosts of salmon jump.  I wish I could sleep.  I put down my paper or book and turn off al the lights, lie quietly in the dark.  It may take hours, even years, for me to sleep again.  There’s nothing surprising or disappointing in that.
I know how all my dreams end anyway. (19)
 For her, there is still the possibility of a better world, that distant horizon, that brighter tomorrow, that final frontier, that constant movement that keeps her from the present.
For him, there are only the ghosts of some better yesteryear and the heaven of now (with or without sleep).  There is only the past and the is.   The future does not exist, except as another is moment, because experience has taught him dreams “end anyway.”  Surviving, carrying on, is moment by moment, story by story, survival.
 © Steve Brown, 2012