Thursday, January 24, 2013

Barrow, Alaska; Dry Creek; and Winter Chores (Part 2)



1.        Today

It’s 35 degrees Fahrenheit and feels like a warm, wet, spring day.  It is only our second thaw in over a month.  During a winter when highs average around 15, 35 makes you want to break out the shorts and mow the lawn.  It’s impossible, of course, as there is still close to a foot of snow covering the ground.  Yet, this Barrow-Alaska-life-style might not last after all.  As, you can see by the five-day forecast below, we are in for a heat wave:
Today
32 °F
Chance of Snow
40% chance of precipitation

Tonight
18 °F
Partly Cloudy
20% chance of precipitation
Tomorrow
32 | 23 °F
Chance of Snow
30% chance of precipitation

Saturday
32 | 19 °F
Chance of Snow
30% chance of precipitation

Sunday
34 | 7 °F
Chance of Snow
40% chance of precipitation

Monday
25 | 1 °F
Chance of Snow
40% chance of precipitation



Therefore, I better not wait too long before finishing this post.  Memory does not hold the moment as well as we would like to think.  I was looking through old posts on the blog a few days ago and was stunned by the beauty of summer at Dry Creek.  I thought I remembered warm days picking tomatoes from the garden, but I really didn’t.  Oh how we forget, as grand moment after grand moment slips by unnoticed.  It will not be long before I no longer have a solid metaphor for life in Barrow, Alaska.  Since, this has been the coldest winter in twenty-five years, it may be another twenty-five before I once again get to sit down and have a chat with true cold.  I need to write it while I know it.
First, a recap:

2.       Last post on “Barrow, Alaska; Dry Creek; and Winter Chores”…

Our hero, Steve, drove 35 miles through a blizzard only to find out the plow stopped half-mile before the entrance to Dry Creek:
There was nothing to do, but gun it through 12 inches of fresh snow.  Luckily, it was so cold that the snow was dry as dust and most of it went flying up over the hood and windshield of the car as plowed erratically through, its bumper picking it up and tossing it back.  The problem was, the minute the grains of snow hit the windshield, they’d briefly melt and then freeze.  Even with the defrost running full blast, an ice sheet quickly spread across, blanking out what little I could see through the driving snow.
I did make it though--at least to the entrance to Dry Creek.  Right at the gate, the car slid to the side, said, “That’s it, I’m done; it’s all yours.  Go on ahead; I’ll wait here.”  And so I walked up the rest of the way to the house, let Marci know I was home safe, hopped on the ATV and started to plow, knowing something had to be done in order for us to be ready to leave for work at 7:00 a.m. the next morning.  Marci joined me with the shovel, and together, we worked until 1:00 a.m., and then came in for four hours of sleep, before starting all over again in the morning.  

3.       This week on “Barrow, Alaska; Dry Creek; and Winter Chores”…

Knowing that it would probably continue to snow through at least part of the night, I woke up at 5:30, so that I’d have time to re-plow the roads.  My assumption was quickly validated.  There was at least another three to four inches, which might not seem like a lot, but when you already have over a foot of snow on the ground, which has been plowed into two to three foot banks along the edges of the road, it’s hard for the plow to push the new snow off the road because it’s walled in from the previous plowing.
Further more, when I got down to where I’d abandoned our car, it became apparent that there was no way we’d make it the ½ mile to town even if we managed to get the car unstuck unless I plowed the county road for them.  So, out of desperation, not good will, I gunned the four wheeler down Canyon Road, then up again, then down again, then up-down, up-down, over and over again, until I thought the car might be able to make it through.  Then, as the car was stuck hood first, I made what I hoped would be an adequate turn-around spot.  I didn’t have much to work with though, because on the north side of Canyon Road it drops off quickly to Chalk Creek forty to fifty feet below.  There is a wire fence and oaks, but not much to keep a car from going over.  In fact, someone must have went over sometime in the fifties because large chunks of his car is still down there tangle in the trees.
I then shoveled around the car, fetched Marci, and with all the optimism I could will, earnestly, or at least half-earnestly believed we would simply back out, turn around and head down towards town.
Unfortunately, Newton’s law, the one about how a body at rest tends to remain at rest, is further strengthened if that body is a car and it is sitting on ice.  And damn it, gravity also plays a part.  And banks of snow, no matter how light and fluffy they may appear, must emit tons of gravity, because I’ve found no matter how well you shovel around the car, the minute your wheels are spinning, it will be sucked towards the biggest snow bank around, and by the time they stop spinning you will have slid half-way through the bank (but not all--don’t get your hopes up) and will be pounding on the steering wheel saying “What the…”
Okay, I’ll sensor it here, wrap it up, as my blood pressure is rising, just thinking about the damn physics or metaphysics of it all.
To make a long story short, we ended up backing up the half-mile to town and were two hours late for work.  Life on the frozen frontier--I wouldn’t miss it for all the palm lined beaches in the world.


Thursday, January 17, 2013

Barrow, Alaska; Dry Creek; and Winter Chores (Part 1)


For sometime I’ve had an odd day dream: to winter in Barrow, Alaska.  There’s not much up there, not even mountains or forest.  Although clearly beautiful, by Alaska standards, the North Slope is Kansas or Nebraska.  No glaciers, no soaring peaks.  Even the coast along the Arctic Ocean seems mundane.  No craggy shoreline, no fiords cutting deep inland, no peninsulas jutting out into the sea.  In short, It’s nothing like Juneau.  More like the Texas gulf coast moved way north--a flat prairie ever so slowly sloping off into a flat sea.
So, why Barrow?  Cold and darkness.  The real stuff.  If you can make it there, you can make it anywhere.  In fact, last year I thought seriously about applying for a teaching position there, worked real hard at convincing Marci and the boys to move, as teaching in Alaska is something we’d considered on and off over the years.  But, as much as I wanted to go, when I prayed, I was prompted instead to return home to Dry Creek.
 However, since Christmas anyway, I’ve pretty much received what I wanted minus the absence of daylight.  Right now, as I write this, our pipes are frozen and we have no hot water.  After consulting my sister, I placed a small electric heater out in the small closet on the east side of the house that contains the propane water heater.  It didn’t seem like a good idea to me, but I guess if your pipes are frozen, you don’t worry about small things like gas explosions.  You just do whatever it takes to get the water flowing.  I put the heater out there last night, around 6:00 p.m., and it’s now almost 9:00 a.m., and there is still no sign of water.  I’ll have to venture out in the balmy 2 degree Fahrenheit weather soon and find out why it didn’t work.
I say a balmy 2 degrees because all but a few mornings since Christmas have been sitting down anywhere from -9 to -5 at Dry Creek and as low as -17 out in the valley.  Highs have rarely topped 20. We also have 18 inches of snow on the ground, 12 of it new, which I’ve been attempting to plow off the roadway since last Thursday with an ATV and plow.
And strangely, I love it.  Last Thursday, I got off work at 10:00 p.m. and it took me two hours to drive the 35 miles through a blizzard of horizontal-flying snow, dunes forming across the Highway 50 before my very eyes.  Then, once I made it through town, then on up Canyon Road, I was horrified to find the plow stopped at the edge of the city limits, more than a half-mile from our house.  There was nothing to do, but gun it through 12 inches of fresh snow.  Luckily, it was so cold that the snow was dry as dust and most of it went flying up over the hood and windshield of the car as plowed erratically through, its bumper picking it up and tossing it back.  The problem was, the minute the grains of snow hit the windshield, they’d briefly melt and then freeze.  Even with the defrost running full blast, an ice sheet quickly spread across, blanking out what little I could see through the driving snow.
I did make it though--at least to the entrance to Dry Creek.  Right at the gate, the car slid to the side, said, “That’s it, I’m done; it’s all yours.  Go on ahead; I’ll wait here.”  And so I walked the rest of the way to the house, let Marci know I was home safe, hopped on the ATV and started to plow, knowing something had to be done in order for us to be ready to leave for work at 7:00 a.m. the next morning.  Marci joined me with the shovel, and together, we worked until 1:00 a.m., and then came in for four hours of sleep, before starting all over again in the morning.  

Thursday, January 3, 2013

5 Books that Changed Me: Great Expectations by Charles Dickens, Grapes of Wrath by John Steinbeck, Daughter of Earth by Agnes Smedley, Selected Poems of William Carlos Williams and Small Graces by Kent Nerburn. (Part 2: Great Expectations)


1.
Great Expectations came into my life three times prior to this post.  The first time was in ninth grade, the year my family and I left my hometown in rural Utah and moved to a suburb north of Dallas, Texas.   The second was my second year at The University of Texas at Arlington, the year I switched my majors from Architecture to English Literature, which was significant, since I’d planned on being an architect since I was eight.   The most recent encounter was two years ago, the year my father died. 
Great Expectations is a unique book in that it so accurately captures the span of a life from childhood, to young adulthood, to adulthood, that as you return to it throughout your life, the book’s focus seems to shift with your own perceptions.  The Great Expectations I read in ninth grade was not the same one I read in college; nor was the Great Expectations I encountered in college the same as the one I received on my long, wintery drive back from Dad’s funeral two springs ago. 
The book is so crammed with living that it provides a lifetime of meaningful encounters.  It is now a winter afternoon at Dry Creek, eleven degrees outside, drops of water none-the-less dripping off the end of the icicles hanging from the roof eves in the afternoon sunlight.   Beyond the glass doors, the white field stretches south toward the banks of the pond and the snow-loaded spruce behind, the mountains rising in deep blue shadow beyond that.  Fire crackles in the fireplace, and I know that if I pursue Great Expectations a fourth time it will again unfold in new light.  It is simply a book that expands with each reading.
First, however, I will indulge in a bit of nostalgia along with this eggnog and chocolate cherry.  What better way to spend a winter afternoon?
2.
I must have first encountered Great Expectations in the fall for I see big, sloppy wet leaves strewn across the suburban lawns as I cut my way along the back streets between Central Expressway and the school.  At one point there is a small pond with a cul-de-sac at one end of it.  The water is stone still and sky and trees and backyards turn upside down in it.  It makes sense that this small oasis of nature between Beltline and Arapaho enters my mind and not the actual school where I read the book. Ninth grade was not a pleasant experience and I’m sure I made that walk take as long as possible.
I want to say two classes made my days there bearable, but that would be a lie.  Ninth grade was only bearable for me in the way war is for survivors.  Yes, I did make it through alive, but I was no longer whole.   I was missing the greater part of me and wouldn’t find it again until I was nearly forty.  But Mr. Terrant’s US History and Mrs. Becker’s 9th Grade English classes did provide some intellectual framework, some spectacles, with which to make some sort of semblance of sense out of the brutality I encountered there.  Perhaps that is why I’ve spent most of my adult life teaching middle school.  Certainly, I didn’t plan on becoming Virgil leading young Dantes through the inferno of puberty, but then I don’t think spiritual journeys are ever chosen.  All our learning and growth takes place in the exact areas we choose to avoid.  Those unfortunate enough to have nothing to avoid never really grow up because they never have that ah-ha moment:  “Oh, this is how that feels.”
Anyway, at some point, I arrived at school that day.  I have blocked out the hallways--the pushing, the shoving, the stupid remarks  by tobacco-chewing, Skoal-spewing jocks followed by the giddy laughter by the most beautiful women on earth (which is what ninth grade girls seem like to a ninth grader), the embarrassment, the self-loathing, the visions of smashing those smirking faces against the lockers even though it’s absolutely impossible as they are built like Greek gods and you’re a ninety pound Mr. Gumby with limbs having as much gumption as the swaying branches of a weeping willow.  Okay, I haven’t quite blocked it out, but I’m trying.
So, instead, I’ll focus on Mrs.  Becker’s class.  She had the face of a prune, but she was clearly an angel, for she brought me the world of Pip--a world that didn’t make any more sense than my own, and therefore made all the sense in the world.  Here was a youth, like myself, with great expectations, thrown into a world so brutal and unresponsive to dreams that the only thing that could develop is clarity, regret and spiritual growth.  In this way, Great Expectations is clearly Victorian and not modern.  Out of the chaos is born insight, and therefore meaning and order.  But unlike many of its predecessors, that chaos doesn’t seem contrived to intensify the order that comes together with the happily-ever-after ending.  In fact, there is no significant happily-ever-after ending, only regret, understanding and wisdom gained--the natural products of life.  Or at least this is true if you read the original ending to the novel.  Dickens rewrite does force Victorian expectations on the novel a bit more, but even so, the ending has a soberness to it, unlike the endings of a Jane Austin novel.  In this way, it’s more mature than say many modern works, which are stuck in the nihilism of puberty:  aware that great expectations are never reached, but unaware that growth occurs in the areas we are most disillusioned with.  Much of modernism has the intellectual framework of an adolescent--a lashing out at what seems to be an unfair universe--without any openness to the grace inherent in imperfection.  Great Expectations, on the other hand, neither clings to the childlike fairytale endings of Victorianism, nor does it sit on the steps, smoking dope, wondering why life sucks like much of modernism.   Like life, Great Expectations is petty, grand, humorous and tragic.  Like life, it’s comprehensive.
But, I jump ahead.  I was not aware of all of this in ninth grade.  No, what attracted me to Great Expectations then was Estella.   I felt I knew her, longed for her, and like Pip, that I would never gain her love.  She was one girl in particular, a girl from my home town, Kelly Krouse, who I’d loved since the fifth grade (which from a ninth-grade perspective, seems like an eternity), but she was also the girl sitting behind me in Mrs. Becker’s class, sandals off, sliding the metal bars of my bookrack between her toes while we read about Estella.   I longed to turn around and tell her something courageous and true, something about how her feet were perfect, as were her eyes and smile.  But I couldn’t, because I was flawed.  I was a child and lacked the courage to reach up and partake of the forbidden fruit.   She, on the other hand, was mature and to me at least, perfect.
This is what is so universal about the Pip/Estella relationship captured in Great Expectations.  Estella is every girl to pubescent males.  Not that all girls are raised to break hearts, not that all girls are cruel, but that the nature of male and female development make them so.  Girls are busy developing into women while boys are still boys.  Girls’ earlier development gives them a magic, a power that boys just can’t comprehend, which makes boys feel insignificant.  It’s a matter of perception, but it seems fairly universal, even today, when boys and girls interact more with each other earlier in life.  Girls, perhaps experience something similar, later on, in high school and college.  But during the early teens, girls rule the world and boys long only to say, “As you wish.”  Thus, during my first reading, Great Expectations was primarily a novel about the relationship (or lack of relationship) between Pip and Estella, captured so powerfully by Dickens:
Though she called me “boy” so often, and with a carelessness that was far from complimentary, she was about my own age.  She seemed much older than I, of course, being a girl, and beautiful and self-possessed; and she was as scornful of me as if she had been one-and-twenty, and a queen.
3.
When I came to Great Expectations a second time, I was in college and never seemed to have enough money.  I came to it voluntarily, devouring it in a cold dorm, instead of working on projects over at the School of Architecture with my peers.  My roommate, Phil, and I didn’t have a microwave or fridge in the room and I didn’t have enough money for a meal plan.  I’d eat cheap foods that didn’t require refrigeration, such as bread, peanut butter and Sure Fine cookies, for as long as I could and then splurge on a hot chicken fried steak and mashed potatoes smothered in country gravy from the dining hall in the student union building.  It would have been much better to have rented a fridge and microwave and had some semblance of food in the room so that hunger wouldn’t force me to what, given my budget, were extravagant binges.  I was never too bad with money, but I always seemed to need to buy CDs  and clothes, and given my budget, these small purchases sent me into the red.  I’d bounce checks, which then would cost me more money.  During this time, Pip in London seemed to speak directly to me:
At certain times--meaning at uncertain times, for they depended on our humor--I would say to Herbert, as if it were a remarkable discovery:
“My dear Herbert, we are getting on badly.”
“My dear Handel,” Herbert would say to me, in all sincerity, “if you will believe me,” those very words were on my lips, by a strange coincidence.”
“Then, Herbert,” I would respond, “Let us look into our affairs.”
We always derived profound satisfaction from making an appointment for this purpose.  I always thought this was business, this was the way to confront the thing, this was the way to take the foe by the throat.  And I know Herbert thought so to.
We ordered something rather special for dinner, with a bottle of something similarly out of the common way, in order that our minds might be fortified for the occasion, and we might come well up to the mark.  Dinner over, we produced a bundle of pens, a copious supply of ink, and a goodly show of writing and blotting paper.  For, there was something very comfortable in having plenty of stationary.
Of course finances were not my only connection with the London portion of Great Expectations.  Pip is an archetype male--as a youth, a young adult, and adult.  His fears, his follies are ours.  I had an English professor who accused us of “genuflecting greatness” and spoke of the omniscient twenty-year old embarrassed by his roots, knowing not who he really is.  We were reading The Damnation of Theron Ware by Harold Frederic, the story of a young minister who knows not himself, but we could have just as well been reading the London portion of Great Expectations.  The sense of arriving, the sense of intellectual superiority, the embarrassment of being connected to common folk--this is the twenties and early thirties.  And for most young men, the most common and embarrassing thing of all is Dad.  There has never been a twenty-year-old male who wasn’t sure he was so much more sophisticated, so much more intelligent than his father.  Joe fulfills the father role in Pip’s life and is no exception to this universal rule.  Pip is embarrassed by Joe’s awkward, country ways around him now that he’s a gentleman, and only realizes after, “I had neither the good sense nor good feeling to know that this was my fault, and that if I had been easier with Joe, Joe would have been easier with me”.
At that age I too was embarrassed by my past, in my small town Mormon upbringing.  But, I’m not unique in this.  For at least children born of goodly parents, it is just the pattern:   in our teens and twenties we believe we must set out to be everything our parents were not,  and by our thirties and forties we realize they didn’t do such a bad job, and often wish we could be a little more like them.
4.
It is this realization that came to me while listening to Great Expectations on my drive down the Oregon and Northern California coast and across Nevada after my father’s funeral: we find ourselves after we’ve realized that not only did our great expectations elude us, but that it doesn’t even matter.   As Pip says to Biddy, it is the journey, not arriving, that counts:
“My dear Biddy, I have forgotten nothing in my life t hat ever had a foremost place there, and little that ever had any place there.  But that poor dream, as I once used to call it, has all gone by, Biddy, all gone by!”
To the young, this may seem like resignation.  But to the mature, it is a softening, an opening.  Except for the short Victorian nod towards a happy ending with “I saw no shadow of another parting from her,” Dickens captures this perfectly.  Estella begins:
“…I have been bent and broken, but--I hope--into a better shape.  Be as considerate and good to me as you were, and tell me we are friends.”
“We are friends,” said I, rising and bending over her, as she rose from the bench.”
“And will continue friends apart,” said Estella.
And the original ending never even makes that nod toward a happily-ever-after.  The journey occurs to open Pip up to understanding, not joy.